After a light (fruit) breakfast and pack up, we left our spot on the beach, turning right on the main highway north towards Port Hardy. The weather was quite chilly and windy, very temperate coastal. Around an hours ride up the road, an impressive collection of wooden chainsaw carvings by the beach caught our eye and we pulled over to check them out. This was in the small coastal town of Campbell River. Across the road was a Tim Hortons where we warmed up with a hot drink and a snack. After wifi searches and emails exchanged with Tanguys old boat, we prepared to leave the town with the intention of meeting Triton in Coal Harbour, approx. 4hrs north. Unfortunately, this is where a touch of disaster struck. Tanguys ignition key was nowhere to be found. He searched his pockets and tank bag, we scoured the ground everywhere around the carvings, retraced steps into Tim Hortons but no luck (reluctantly on Tanguys part) we had to press on North. We keep a spare hidden in the bikes frame for such instances…
Carvings in Campbell river
The weather has now clouded over, and not long afterwards it began to drizzle, then proper rain. We pulled over and (rain)geared up, then rode to Woss where we stopped for another hot drink and dried our helmets. We pressed on through the unpleasant weather, passed walls of green trees for hours until we made it to the small settlement of Coal Harbour.
It has finally stopped raining, and once at the marina we approached some workers near an abandoned-looking seaplane hangar. They informed us we could park our bikes inside for the night, at $5 a day. Sweet. We unpacked our overnight things while waiting for a tender to pick us up, Paul and Vik had invited us to spend the night onboard. They came and I finally got to see the famous yacht Triton, whom I’d heard so many stories about. (Tanguy worked onboard for four years, plus other crew members I know). They dished us up dinner while we chatted around the breakfast nook for the evening, catching up with Travis too. At midnight we went to bed in a guest cabin.
The hanger our bikes are spending the night in… in good company!
Safely tucked away for the night
An all too short sleep later our alarm went off at 6:20; Paul had told us about a cool kayak trip to take up the river, but we had to leave on the right tide. Travis helped us with gear and getting the kayaks from the bridge deck. The trees near the anchorage were all swathed with fog this early in the morning; it was perfectly still. (And cold!)We set off with Bob (the engineer) towards the river. We saw lots of jellyfish, geese, loonies, bald eagles and further up a group of seals clinging to tiny rock outcrops. It was a truly tranquil and beautiful place; the river turned into a canyon, the trees and moss reached over the river, salmon jumped and not another soul in sight. We slowed our paddle strokes to take in the stillness and beauty. We hiked the kayak over some Rapids to make it to the waterfall, then had to turn back. By now the sun was up and had burned off the fog, making for different views. Once back at the boat we packed our things, chatted away until it was time to go. They had guests arriving this afternoon afterall! Paul dropped us off back at the dock, where we packed our bikes and ate the yummy take-away lunch Vik had packed for us. She also sorted us with some yoghurts + snacks, the chef also gave us two fillets of fish. Ahh, yacht food! The sun was high, and after a quick detour to Port Hardy (had some internet research to do) we aimed for Woss Lake campground, not too far as we were tired after our whirlwind yacht visit. Down a gravel road we set up camp at the free basic site right near the water. A few hours still to sunset we potted around fixing our bikes, enjoying the lake, then cooked the halibut and noddles from the boat for dinner. Yum.
–Zoe
P.s beautiful sunny day, but a cold front passing over meant that once the sun disappeared, we were very cold!! Our down jackets and beanies came out for the first time in a long time.
This story is a one off !! Thank you Zoe.
Who would have thought you would visit Triton there and in these circonstances …. It was definitely 100 % worth it to drive all that way up to Coal Harbour and meet good companions. On top of that you had the opportunity to explore the beauties of the river around this magic boat ! It’s a pity they had guests that day but I’m sure they treated you royally !
Luckily T. you had spare keys or else you would have missed all this ! I can imagine the panic and how you must have reacted…. Ooooh my God ! Glad I was not there… poor Zoe 😉
Be sure you won’t loose these …. it’s your last chance … order new once the sooner the better 😉
A very exciting story linked to Triton “the magnificent”. Oh ! I love that boat.
I’m sure you took some good rest after these 2 hectic days huh ?
Ready for the next adventures ? Yes ? Well we are too… can’t wait to hear more of it but “Mum”s says” take good care you two !
XXX
Aaahh, Triton! Such good memories, not only for Tanguy.
Nice boat, practical, well thought out!
Travis still on board, he would have made it up to 1st by now, no?
Late in season to be cruising high up, but perhaps better than be in Florida at this time.
It must have been quite an emotional visit after what? 5-6 years?
Wood sculptures and canoe paddling, no bears.
Baci till next post