The weather was nice and clear for the ferry crossing, and during the narrow beginning portion of the 4 1/2hour We had amazing steep fjord vistas with the odd glacier along the way. Food options looked minimal (read fast food style) so we ate our boat snacks, and layered up as the wind got cooler and cooler. The ferry was quite old (1974) and a few too many people for their scattered seating options. We had a couple loose plastic chairs outside. We arrived after dark at Auke Bay Juneau, and drove to and set up camp in the dark. Such a strange experience the last month + of 24h daylight!
Upper deck of Le Compte ferry to Juneau
Sunset in the Inside Passage
We woke up to see our campsite, pleasantly surprised by the wooded greenery around us and plenty of space between neighbours – First thing on our list was taking advantage of the included hot showers – so very nice!
Back to dark nights after 4 weeks in eternal daylight
After that we drove through Auke bay (we were 12miles north of Juneau town) and north to a hike up to Herbets Glacier, hoping it would be much quieter than Mendenhall Glacier, which you could drive up to, meaning it would be packed with cruise ship tourists.
The drive was very pretty, rainforest like trees etc. We started our hike, realising we were on the wrong side of the river headed towards a lake not the glacier; met some locals who recommended we carry on this way. Very pretty hike winding through forest, ponds and rivers. We ate our meager snacks at a deserted lake shore, our stomachs not satisfied headed back to town. Along the way we stopped at a stone chapel on a coastal island for the views. Once in town (traffic lights, highway lanes and everything!!) we parked at ‘Hangar by the Wharf’ restaurant, where we had some real food. Enjoyed watching the float planes land and dock in front of us. After that we took the road to the very end south, stopping to watch thousands of Sockeye heading upstream – very stinky around here, they seem to be heading up every available river. Then it was on to explore Douglas Island across the bridge. Had a beer and snack at Island Bar, then watched the sun set on the far side of the island. Spied a porcupine rustling around in the grass, the first one we have seen that wasn’t roadkill! Once darkness falls, there’s no point riding around to back to camp.
On the Windfall trail
Crossing the marches on the Winfall lake trail
Chapel Ste Thereze
The turbine otters coming and going from downtown Juneau
Salmon running up the stream in Juneau
Looking at downtown Juneau from Douglas island
Next morning I got up early to see Mendenhall Glacier without the crowds, arrived just before 8 and wandered the trail to Nugget Falls. Along the way stopping for a snack by the shores, I saw two beavers at work munching on some twigs. Very cool my first beavers, hung out here for awhile. After walking to the end of the trail, the tourists where showing up now by the busload so it was time to go. Headed to the very end of the road north, about 50kms one way. Did a short hike in point Bridget state park, but after fresh wet bear-paw prints on the path, I saw ahead a black bear who disappeared in the thick foliage; y’know what I’ll leave this one to you, bear! The berries were in full swing bringing lots of bears to the forest shrubs.
Mendenhall Glacier and Nugget falls on the right
The work of a beaver
Drove back into town stopping at many beaches, coves, and boat ramps, all almost deserted. In town I stopped by a pizza truck, the owner of we met on the Haines ferry, who offered us a good deal if we stopped by. Chatted to him, then wandered around town, didn’t appeal to me much at all. Lots of tourists, hot weather and poor/homeless people. Getting sleepy so back to camp for an early night, 5am rise for the ferry tomorrow.
Rode to the end off all Juneau roads
Zoe
If a town like Juneau doesn’t appeal to you, the agglomerations further south will be some culture shock!
After months in nature-nature you’ll have to re-adapt to the habitat of over 50% of this planet’s population.
Food still remains a daily topic of interest, really that bad in the US of A?
But.. you saw a beaver, tick on the wildlife list.
Baci
I guess you know Juneau better than anyone else know that you drove it up and down and visited most of it. Mendenhall glacier looks very pretty!
I was amazed to see how many salmons swimming their way to ” layland ” !!
They are sure on any menu in the restaurants over there isn’t it ?
So ready to get back on the boat for more adventures huh ? Tie them well this time and see you in the next harbour !
Xxx mum