Today we set off for the last stretch of our diagonal crossing of the North America. Packing up was quick some most of our stuff stayed with Jerry (our friendly motorcycle mechanic). We got up leasurely at 08:30, had breakfast at the hotel and were ready to hit the road at 10:00. We took some fuel in Fox, not that we needed to but as a rule, on the Dalton you fuel up every time you find a pump… just in case! From there it is still 60kms to the start of the Dalton Highway.
The Dalton was built as the supply road for the oil fields some 800 Kms up the road on the Arctic Ocean coast. Prudhoe Bay didn’t exist prior to the discovery of oil in the 70’s and road was necessary to build the pipeline and all the infrastructure in Prudhoe Bay. As such the road was never intended for public use. However, whenever someone builds a road someone else will want to go and drive it! The fuel stops are far apart, very suitable for big rigs but not so much for private cars, the road is maintained for the trucks but cars and motorbikes might find the ride a little rough. Only certain sections are sealed, the rest is gravel, dirt, dust or mud depending on the weather. The Dalton is notorious for shredding tires, blowing out suspension and leaving people stranded out of gas. Now and then it also flips a rider into the bushes!
A big rig powering down the Dalton
The road turned to dirt before we started on the Dalton, just to give us a taste of things to come. The first stop is the Dalton road sign, I doubt anyone other than a trucker would pass up the opportunity to take a picture of the famous sign.
From there it’s a 150kms hop to the Yukon River crossing. On the other side of a very long bridge that spans the river is the first of 2 road houses that offers fuel and food along the Dalton. We took advantage of the fuel since you can never be sure the next place has any. We also stopped for lunch which was average but necessary and as we were preparing to leave our Italian friends caught up with us again. We hung out with them for a while before carrying on the long ride to Coldfoot.
Topping off the tanks at Yukon River with our friends Gino and Manu.
The road follows the pipeline which will be part of our scenery for the rest of the trip. Unfortunately due to the road conditions and the fact that there isn’t much room for mistakes on this road, our eyes spent most of the time focusing on the road, avoiding pot holes, washouts and other obstacles that could put an end to our trip. But we slowed down now and again to have a look at the hills around our lolls and to look for caribou and muskox amongst other critters.
Next stop along the way was at the crossing of the Arctic circle. Again, few people will pass up the opportunity of a picture with the sign. Unfortunately the light was all wrong but we took the picture anyway and decided we would stop again on the way back when it would be earlier in the day with better light.
We passed a surprising large amount of bicycle riders and of course the trucks hauling the goods to Prudhoe Bay.
We arrived in Coldfoot around 1900 and inquired at the visitor centre about camping in the area which didn’t yield much. We then headed to the roadhouse across he road where we were told we could camp for free on the property, the place is open 24hours and we can have diner until midnight! A few other bikers were already there having some beers on the patio so we quickly set up our tent and joined them.
It’s beer o’clock at Coldfoot road house (20:00 and still very light!)
A little while later Andrew (a rider we met in Whitehorse) showed up with a new acquaintance closely followed by the Italians. We had quite the party going on on the deck, shared some pasta with team Italian and before we knew it there was a whole motorcycle tent village going on at the road house! Quite a pleasant evening sharing stories with fellow riders with a passion for adventure.
Gino and Manu invited us for pasta pasta al fresco!
Our little motorcycle pop up camp site in Coldfoot
TA
Looks like you’re building up a new community ! Have fun all together !
Today I start early to try and catch up with the missed episodes during our absence.
Pipeline, big riggs and beer-o-time with a growing number of riders, Prudhoe Bay better be prepared for the coming rider-tsunami!
Baci